Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Exploring the edge of the World

I've travelled far and wide in Canada: British Columbia, Alberta, New Brunswick, Quebec, PEI and Nova Scotia. Everywhere I've been (even francophone Quebec) has felt reasonably similar to my home in Ottawa, Ontario. For that reason I've tended to make certain assumptions about how Canadians live and who we are as a people.

All my assumptions have been thrown out the window now that I've visited Newfoundland.

Glosette Girl, Margot and I are currently wrapping up our 12 day tour of this far flung province perched on the edge of North America. It has been been an eye opening experience. I don't want this blog post to sound like a tourist ad but the scenery has been spectacular.

I mean, what's your fancy? Haunting beauty?

The gates of "Western Brook Pond"
Vertigo inducing hike?

Hiking in the clouds of the Skerwink Trail
Or just your regular, run-of-the mill, breathtaking lookout?

Lobster Cove Lookout
Of course, pretty much everywhere in Canada has pretty scenery. What has made Newfoundland extra special for me has been the people. The people here are different. They say "hi" and look you in the eye. They are rougher but nicer. And everything you've heard about the Newfoundland accent is true (other than in St John's, where the accent is less pronounced). The words are English, I suppose, but they just come out of people's mouths in a different way!

And I haven't even gone into the traditions yet. Ever heard of a Mummer's parade?


This weather here is harsh and to add to that (or sometimes because of that) history has not been kind. A melancholy feeling hangs over the air. Yet there is a fierce and authentic happiness that is hard to put my finger on. I can see why, even with its seemingly endless winters, people can fall in love with this island.

2 comments:

  1. So glad you had such a great time. Gros Morne itself so ranks in my top 3-5 hikes. And we also had such genuinely warm interactions with folks. Want to go back and explore more one day.

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  2. Couple of great photos there, the last one especially. I'll admit I haven't been drawn to this part of Canada. The photos I have seen in generally have shown me a pretty scraggy, scrubby place. I'm sure there are many who appreciate that aesthetic, but up to now it hasn't drawn me in. I'm an extremely visual person, so sadly it factors in. But maybe you should show me more...

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